Information on the use of a sharpening stone, types of honing oil, and metals, such as stainless steel, used in knife blades.
Even though we offer quality hunting knives from a variety of manufacturers for purchase we also try to offer information so our customers can be better informed about the hunting knives we sell. On our "All about knives" page you'll find several sections providing information on the care, and sharpening of knives. Information on the history, making of knives, and materials used is also included. On our Warranties page you will find warranty information about every brand of knife we carry. Each knife manufacturer has an excellent warranty and we think the information provided will help you make your decision on which hunting knife to purchase. We hope you'll find this information very useful in buying or taking care of your hunting knife.
All About Knives
On this page we will provide you with the information to assist you in finding that hunting knife that is just right for you. While some of the information you may already know about, we hope you will find our information helpful in making your decision.
A brief history
While no one really knows when the first knife was invented it's a pretty safe bet that the knife was one of the first tools invented. From the stone age, to the bronze age, to the iron age, down to the modern age, the basic structure of the knife has remained constant over the years in that they all still have a blade, sharp edge and handle. Today, the knife is still an important tool and part of our everyday life for sport and work, but not necessarily so much for survival. Thus, the knife you purchase should not only be of lasting performance and quality, but have and attractive design and finish that gives the owner a sense of pride. Most cultures have their own distinctive history of knives and this is what makes collecting knives so popular.
Types of Blade Steels
Stainless Steel – There is no exact definition of when steel becomes “stainless”, but most say that steel with greater than 13% chromium in it would be considered “stainless”. Stainless steel will resist rust much longer due to its high content of chromium. Low carbon and high chromium is usually seen in dive knives where rust resistance is more important than holding an edge. As you go up in carbon, you get less rust resistant, but typically you add hardening ability and edge retention.
Non-Stainless (Carbon and Alloy Steels) - There are a wide variety of these steels. They focus on edge retention or superior toughness and not so much rust resistance. In exchange for a little extra maintenance, you get great performance with these steels.
Damascus – This is when two or more metals are welded together. These blades usually have striking beauty when the final product is acid etched. These types of blades are usually forged with this objective in mind.
Non-Steels Ceramic - The benefits of these blades are that they hold an edge longer than steel and are completely non-corrosive. However, the down side is that they are brittle.
Cobalt Based Alloys – These types of blades show promise as they will hold an edge for a very long time and are also non-corrosive, but tougher than ceramic blades. However, they are also much more expensive.
Titanium – These blades are non-corrosive and lighter than steel. They can only hold a reasonable edge OK.
About Blade Steel
The most common blade material used to make knives is iron and carbon that is enhanced with a variety of elements such as chromium, vanadium, manganese, and more. Different types of steel are created by adjusting the amounts of each material that is added. Stainless steels, for instance, are created by adding more rust resistant materials.
Finishing processes play a large role in creating blade steel. Processes such as rolling and heat treating have a great affect on performance. Each material performs differently under varying finishing processes.
154CM
This is an American made stainless steel that was originally developed to make turbine blades in jet engines. It is very similar to ATS-34. It's very corrosion resistant and has good toughness and edge quality.
440C
This is a stainless steel that is used on many factory manufactured knife blades. It is very tough and extremely stain resistant. It holds an edge well and is fairly easy to sharpen. It is generally hardened to between 56 and 59 Rc., and makes a great all around blade. 440C is far superior to most other 400 series steels. 440A and 440B are not as good.
ATS-34
This is a stainless steel that comes from Japan and is very similar to The U.S.'s 154CM. It became very popular with knife makers in the 1990's as a higher quality alternative to 440C. The steel is not as rust resistant as 440C, but holds a better edge. The carbon content is 1.04% . It works best when hardened to between 59 Rc to 61 Rc.
AUS-8
This steel has a low carbon to chromium ratio. It is very resistant to corrosion, and is very tough, but does not hold an edge as well as many other steel variations with higher carbon content.
BG-42
This material is a stainless steel. It has a better edge holding ability than 44C and ATS-34, and is tougher than ATS-34. Works best when hardened to 61 - 63 Rc.
D2
This material is a very high carbon steel (1.5%) that has superb edge holding ability and unmatched wear resistance, but lacks toughness. It is not as corrosion resistant as 440C or ATS-34, and is not considered a stainless steel because it only has 12% chrome. Stainless blades have 13% or more.
Damascus
Damascus is made of a variety of steels that are layered together. The finishing process involves an acid etch that exposes the surface lines. The end result is a tough blade with good edge quality. It is quite expensive and used mostly for its artistic nature.
H1
H1's claim to fame is its corrosion resistance. Blades made of the material sacrifice edge quality for this corrosion resistance and toughness.
M2
This is an extremely tough, tool grade steel. It is used mostly for industrial cutting tasks. The steel has superb strength and is extremely wear resistant, but is highly susceptible to corrosion.
S30V
This is a premium grade steel that was designed in the U.S. for knife making. It has very good edge holding ability and is very corrosion resistant.
Basic Knife Blade Features
There are basically two different types of knife blades, the fixed blade and the folding blade.
The fixed blade is one solid piece of steel anchored to the handle. They are ready for use, durable and dependable. The further the sheath or steel blade goes into the handle the sturdier the knife will be. The hunting knife falls into this category. With the hunting knife, you can prepare yourself for any occasion in the wild. Not only are hunting knives useful for hunting, but for a variety of activities such as cleaning fish, skinning, boning or dressing game. Hunting knives are also very useful around any campsite for clearing brush, removing limbs and of course for physical emergencies. It is important to recognize how lethal these knives can be, so keep your hunting knife sharp, well kept, properly sheathed and away from children.
The folding blade, also known as a pocket knife, is not quite as durable, but is convenient to carry and provides safety. Some folding blades lock into place in various ways and some are assisted in their opening. Some pocket knives offer multiple blades for different uses. Pocket knives come in a variety of configurations and some offer multiple blades for different uses. A pocket knife is a tool that many people would not be without. It is an indispensable part of woodworking, first aid, hunting, hiking and camping gear. The pocket knife is truly one of the most versatile and useful tools. It is small, discrete, compact, lightweight and flexible.
The Swiss Army knife takes utility to a whole new level. With a Swiss Army knife, you never have to hunt for all those tools. It’s like having a hanging toolbox on your key chain or in you pocket. Having a Swiss Army knife is like having a pocket knife with a dozen other tools. Now days, Swiss Army knives are practically custom made in that they can fit any individuals needs from a knife to a corkscrew to a file. No wonder Swiss Army knives are sweeping the market.
Sharpening Your Knife
NEVER sharpen your knife on a power driven grinding wheel. This can burn temper from your blade and make the edge brittle and possibly chip or crack. Doing this, will void any warranty you may have on your knife.
To sharpen your knife correctly, use a sharpening stone. If your knife is really dull, use a coarse stone first and then move to a fine grit stone. For a straight blade knife, the correct angle is 13 to 16 degrees, about the thickness of the blade. Keep the blade on the surface of the stone and move it in a clockwise motion with the edge facing right. Then, turn the knife over and move the knife in a counter clockwise motion.
To sharpen a serrated blade, do not use a sharpening stone. Use a Diamond tapered sharpener. Find the correct spot on the taper that matches the size of the serration. Keep the knife at the same angle as the factory edge. Push the sharpener against the blade, rotating as you go. Sharpen only the grinded side of the serration. Repeat this process for all of the serrations.
Cleaning Your Knife
Clean the entire knife and not just the blade. Make sure the folding mechanism is clean of debris as prolonged exposure to elements can cause the blade to oxidize. You may use cleaning solvents such as Acetone, nail polish remover, alcohol or paint thinner. But, avoid using harsh detergents that contain chlorine, as this will accelerate corrosion. Also, avoid emerging your knife in liquids for long periods of time. Periodically lubricate your knife and always after cleaning it. Apply lubrication to the working parts of the knife as well as the blade
Courtesy of Outlaw Camping
http://www.outlawcamping.com/
The Knife . . . One of Man's Oldest ToolsThe Knife is an amazing tool-an ancient tool for which there has been no substitute. Throughout history, knives have been essential for survival, as well as for providing food and shelter. From its earliest form, the knife developed out of necessity, and its evolution may be traced through the paths of technology.
During the Stone Age, knives were made of flint, which could easily be scaled to shape, and then could be re-scaled to produce a new edge. Later, flint knives were ground to the desired shape. Much later in history, man began to make knives from copper, bronze, and finally, from the products of iron as we know them today.
Humans hold a special bond with tools-in particular, those used for hunting. Over the ages, guns, knives, bows and spears have been adorned with ornate patterns. These marks of craftsmanship added a touch of beauty and reflected pride in the skills the craftsmen had learned. Even in modern days, when purchasing a knife for hunting or fishing, the product of choice must be not only of lasting performance and quality, but also have an attractive design and finish that gives the owner a sense of pride. Long-time sportsmen usually keep their tools in clean working order and often display their tools for others to admire.
Most of the world's countries have a knife related to their culture and history. This is one reason why knife collecting has become an increasingly popular hobby. Long, slim bolo knives were uniquely suited to the sugar cane and jungle work of the Philippines. Machetes from South America are a heavier jungle knife suited for clearing dense rain forest vegetation. Curved, wicked-looking Ghurka knives are used by the renowned Ghurka fighters of India. Of course, America's own Bowie Knife has made its place in history. The Bowie was handcrafted, and those looking for the finest in knives today still must look to the hands of the skilled craftsman.
Today, the knife continues to be an important tool, though more for sport and work than survival, as in the past. As knife technology and production methods have advanced, knife uses have expanded and knife forms have become more specialized. Today, you can get a Buck knife in a wide assortment of configurations and materials. And, much the same as yesteryear, when specialized craftsmen made custom knives as prized possessions, today you can still do the same through Buck Custom Knife Shoppe.
Knife Sharpening
| Every knife needs sharpening from time to time. With the following instructions, you will be using the safest and most effective method of sharpening your knife. If you are looking for other information about knife care, please refer to Knife Care & Repair or Warranty. |
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What not to do |
| Never sharpen your knife on a power-driven grinding wheel. This can burn the temper from your blade, which will make the edge brittle and possibly chip or crack. Sharpening your knife in this manner will void the warranty. |
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Knife Sharpening Equipment
| For best results, use a sharpening stone. For quick touch-ups on a blade that is not too dull, use our fine grit diamond sharpening stone or our Arkansas Washita honing stone. For a more thorough sharpening on a blade that is dull, use the coarse grit stone first, then go to the fine grit stone or stones. |
| Diamond sharpening stones may be used dry or wet, but wet is recommended. When using them wet, use water, not oil, as a lubricant. Washita stones should always be used wet. You may choose to use your stand-alone Washita stone (not attached to the Tri-Stone system) with honing oil as a lubricant. Once you do this, water will no longer work well as a lubricant and you will need to use kerosene or honing oil to keep your stone clean. For information on sharpeners, see Accessories. |
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Types of Sharpeners |
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Diamond Stone Sharpeners |
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A metal or composite base with an outer layer of micron-sized diamonds bonded to a metal surface. Many diamond sharpeners have special surface holes to prevent "filing build-up." Fast-acting and very effective. Use care to avoid excess pressure. |
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Natural Stone Sharpeners |
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Arkansas natural stones are genuine silica "Novaculite", indigenous to Arkansas. They come in different grits and have abrasive properties well suited for knife sharpening. |
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Types of sharpening fluid |
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Some people recommend sharpening dry and cleaning the sharpener as needed. Our recommendation is to sharpen wet because it keeps the pores of the sharpener clean, dissipates frictional heat and facilitates smooth sharpening action. |
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Diamond Sharpeners: Can be used wet or dry. If using a diamond sharpener wet, use water or water-based honing oil, not petroleum based oil. |
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Natural Sharpening Stones: Can be used wet or dry. Water, water-based honing oil or petroleum-based honing oil can be used. Be generous with the honing fluid. Use enough to keep a pool visible on the stone while you are sharpening. When the pool gets murky, pat or lightly wipe up with a rag and add more fluid.
Note: Once you use oil on a natural or aluminum oxide stone, it is difficult to change back to using water. Treat the decision to use oil as a permanent one. |
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Handle a sharpener with care to protect its surface |
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Do not drop. |
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Protect the surface during use and storage. |
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After every use, use a little extra fluid and wipe the sharpener clean and dry. |
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Clean sharpening stone periodically to eliminate debris build-up (swarf). Glossy grey streaks indicate debris build-up.
- If you sharpen with water or water-based honing oil, clean sharpening stone with soapy water.
- If you sharpen with petroleum-based honing oil, clean sharpening stone with kerosene or more honing oil.
- Scrub with your finger or a mild brush, such as a used toothbrush. |
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Practice sharpening on a non-valuable knife |
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Through the process of sharpening, scratches may occur beyond the edge of the blade. If you are new to sharpening, you may wish to practice on an old or inexpensive knife first to get the feel for avoiding unwanted scratches. |
Sharpening Instructions Straight blades Serrated blades Gut hooks Fish hooks & small pointed objects Small tools
Sharpening straight blades (non-serrated) |
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Inspect your blade condition by holding the knife, edge up, and looking down the length of the blade— Look for nicks or flats spots reflected by light. |
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Is the blade nicked or extremely dull? Start with Stage 1, Coarse Grit Stone. |
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Is the blade somewhat dull or just needs a touch-up? Start with Stage 2 or Stage 3. |
| STAGE 1: HEAVY SHARPENING—COARSE GRIT SHARPENER |
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For extremely dull blades, inconsistent edge, or nicks/dull spots. |
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This stage is the "rough cut" to remove inconsistencies in the blade edge and take it from very dull to sharp, but not finished. Buck's Diamond Sharpening Stone, Model 1327, has coarse 325 grit, suitable for stage 1 sharpening. |
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Sharpening fluid. |
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Diamond Sharpeners: Can be used dry or wet. If lubrication is desired, use water or water-based honing oil, not petroleum based oil. |
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Natural Sharpening Stones: Can be used dry or wet. Water, water-based honing oil or petroleum-based honing oil can be used (see "Knife Sharpening Notes" for recommendations). |
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Hold the correct grind angle. |
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Ideally, follow the grind and edge angle as they were when new. Scratches on the blade happen when sharpening. Use them to measure if you're angled too high or too flat against the stone, or if you're skipping off the edge of the stone. |
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The angle on a Buck Knife is ground to 13-16 degrees per side (see illustrations). If you hold the knife against the stone to cut evenly across the edge grind, you will produce an edge with a similar angle. If you hold the blade at too high of an angle, the resulting edge will lose some slicing ability (but will stand up better to chopping). A good rule of thumb is to hold the blade so the back of it is about one blade width up from flat on the stone. |
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Stroke the blade across the sharpener with even control. Too much pressure will crush or remove the grit from a diamond sharpener. It will also force a thicker burr on the edge, which is harder to remove or which can break off, creating new flat spots on the edge. Your stroke can be straight or circular, from "hilt to tip" –or- "tip to hilt," whichever is more comfortable. With most portable sharpeners, you need to stroke in a straight direction. The blade edge should face in the same direction as you stroke, so you move metal away from the edge. (Stroking toward the edge will create a thicker burr on the edge, the same as using too much pressure, with the same undesirable results). |
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Maintain contact with the sharpener. |
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When stroking the blade across the sharpener, as you work the length of the edge (from hilt to tip), do not let the tip of the blade skip off the edge, or end, of the sharpener. This results in a rounded tip or unwanted scratches on the side of the blade. |
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Alternate blade sides. |
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Do the same number of strokes on each side of the blade. If you do 15-20 strokes on one side, do 15-20 on the other side. Don't alternate sides with each stroke, or you won't get a burr. As you feel a burr developing on one side, switch to the other side and check that the burr is making the same progress on the other side. |
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For circular sharpening, keep the blade on the surface and use an easy, clockwise motion with the edge facing right, until the desired sharpness is achieved. It is ideal to achieve the original factory edge. |
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Turn the blade over. Use an easy, counter-clockwise motion with the edge facing left. Try to spend the same amount of time on each side. |
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Work the "nicks" separately. If there is a nick on the edge, you can work just the area around the nick evenly, side-to-side. Once the nick appears to be gone, go back to working the entire length of the edge. |
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Inspect the "evenness" of your edge. The object is to have an even edge on both sides. Move to the next step when you feel the burr from hilt to tip on one side AND you see no nicks or dull spots along the edge. |
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Prepare for Stage 2 |
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Pat or wipe your knife dry. Be careful—the burr can cut just like a sharpened edge. Move on to Stage 2 for working the edge. |
| STAGE 2: MEDIUM OR FINAL SHARPENING—FINE GRIT SHARPENER |
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For typical dull blades - OR - continuing from Stage 1. |
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This stage removes rough scratches from Stage 1... |
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- OR - is an appropriate starting point for blades that are somewhat, but not overly, dull. Buck's Diamond Sharpening Stone, Model 1328, has fine 750 grit, suitable for Stage 2. |
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Sharpening fluid. |
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Diamond sharpeners: Can be used dry or wet. If lubrication is desired, use water or water-based honing oil, not petroleum based oil. |
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Natural Sharpening Stones: Can be used dry or wet. Water, water-based honing oil or petroleum-based honing oil can be used (see "Knife Sharpening Notes" for recommendations). |
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Sharpen the edge, following the same steps as in Stage 1. |
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You can achieve a good, sharp edge and finish at this stage without going on to Stage 3. |
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To do so, hone with light, single strokes, side-to-side, until you feel no burr on either side |
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To fine-tune the edge or smooth "sharpening scratches", skip this step, go to Stage 3. |
| STAGE 3: FINE SHARPENING—NATURAL STONE |
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For slightly dull blades - OR - continuing from step 2. |
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This step removes any remaining burr and puts a burnish on the blade edge. Buck's "Arkansas Washita Honing Stone" has fine 600 grit that is suitable for Stage 3. |
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Sharpening fluid. |
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Natural sharpening stones can be used dry or wet, but wet is recommended. Water, water-based honing oil or petroleum-based honing oil keeps the pores of the stone clean, dissipates frictional heat and ensures smooth sharpening action. Once you use oil on a natural or aluminum oxide stone, it is difficult to change back to using water. Treat the decision to use oil as a permanent one. |
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Sharpening will require some clean-up anyway, so be generous with the honing fluid. Use enough to keep a pool visible on the stone while you are sharpening. When the pool gets murky, pat or lightly wipe up with a rag and add more fluid. |
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Use the same stroking motion as described in Stage 1. Repeat until scratches from the previous grit stone are gone. You should still feel a burr, but it should be smaller/finer. |
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Once you clean all the scratches off the edge from the previous grit, use light, single strokes side-to-side. Make one stroke from hilt to tip, then turn the knife to the other side and stroke once from hilt to tip. |
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Repeat this several times until you can't feel any burr on either side of the edge, from hilt to tip. The knife should be razor sharp at this point. If the knife fails to cut as expected, you may need to start again from Stage two. Remember, if you use too much pressure against the stone, you will raise a thick burr instead of removing it. |
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Sharpening Serrated Blades |
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| Sharpening serrated blades and gut hooks requires a different technique and different style sharpener. |
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| Do not use a flat sharpening stone. Buck's Diamond Taper Sharpener or Diamond Pocket Sharpener is the right tool for this job. |
| Even a taper sharpener cannot create the same kind of edge that was originally on the knife. This makes it difficult to achieve better than a "serviceable" edge on these features, and that should be your objective—not achieving perfection. Because of their shapes, these features are more easily distorted through sharpening than a blade edge. You may wish to consider sharpening serrations and gut hooks only when dull spots are visible. |
| Serrations |
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Serrations have a grind on one side of the blade only. Sharpen the grind side only. |
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Hold the sharpener at the angle that matches the original edge angle. |
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Put the pointed, narrow end of the sharpener up against the serration and stroke the sharpener into the serration—away from the edge of the blade, toward the spine. Stop stroking when the width of the taper sharpener gets to the same width as the serration (do not enlarge the width of the serration). |
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Rotate (spin) the sharpener as you go for even, consistent sharpening. |
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Check progress and continue until you feel a very slight burr. |
Sharpening Gut Hooks
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Unlike serrations, a gut hook is ground on both sides of the blade. Use the same taper sharpener as for serrations. |
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Do not try to fill the entire width of the gut hook with the wide end of the sharpener. This will enlarge the gut hook curve and distort the cutting edge. |
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Put the pointed, narrow end of the sharpener up against the open end of the gut hook. The narrow, pointed end of the sharpener should face in toward the thickness of the blade, away from the edge of the gut hook. |
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Hold the sharpener at the angle that matches the original gut hook edge angle. This will maintain the correct sharpening angle and prevent you from getting cut by the blade tip. Make sure to hold the same angle when sharpening each side of the gut hook. |
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In a forward and sideways motion, stroke the sharpener from one side of the gut hook to the other. Spin the sharpener as you go. As with sharpening a blade edge, the objective is to start at the edge and stroke away from the edge. |
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Alternate blade sides. |
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Do the same number of strokes on each side of the blade's gut hook. Keep the number of strokes to a minimum to avoid distorting the gut hook shape. |
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Check progress and continue until you feel desired sharpness (very slight burr). |
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Once a burr is detected, stroke alternating sides until the burr is removed (just like finishing a straight edge blade). |
Sharpening fish hooks and other small pointed objects
| Sharpening fish hooks and other small, pointed objects also requires a different technique and different style sharpener. Do not use a flat sharpening stone. Buck's portable sharpeners have a straight-line "fish hook groove" that is the right tool. |
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Place the fish hook in the groove, with the point in the same direction you will stroke. |
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Hold the fish hook in the groove and stroke it to the end of the groove. |
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Because you are working with a small, thin object, exercise restraint: |
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- Check progress frequently—a few strokes may be all you need.
- Do not use pressure when stroking. |
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The fish hook groove can be used to sharpen other fine point objects (darts, needles, etc.). |
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Sharpening small tools
| For very small tools, a sharpener with an uninterrupted surface works best. Most of Buck's sharpening stones have a Micro-Tool Sharpening Pad™ with an uninterrupted surface that is preferable for small objects. |
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Within the pad's surface, use the same sharpening techniques described above for sharpening straight blades. |
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Because you are working with a small tool, exercise restraint: |
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- Do not use pressure when stroking the sharpener.
- Alternate sides often (perhaps with each stroke), or you may wear away part of the tool.
- Check your progress frequently—take small steps. |
How to Keep Your Blade Sharp
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Sharpen regularly |
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Regular sharpening may involve only fine-tuning the edge, but infrequent sharpening may require much more work to restore the edge. |
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Maintain the edge |
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- Dress (sharpen) the edge as soon as you notice it's not working as well as it should.
- If you attend to the edge soon enough, a few single strokes side-to-side should bring the edge back to sharp. After several re-dresses, though, you may have changed the shape (bevel) of the edge and may need to go back to Stage 1 or Stage 2 sharpening. |
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Which sharpener do you need to use? |
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It depends on the condition of the edge. If it just needs a re-dress, then a fine grit stone should be fine (should be the last sharpener you used—Stage 2 or 3). If the edge has dulled, you may need to go back to Stage 2 sharpening. If it has rounded significantly, you may need to go back to Stage 1. |
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Keep your sharpener where you use your knives. (shop, tackle box, kitchen) |
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You will be more inclined to re-dress a dulled edge as soon as you notice it if there is a sharpener handy. |
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Cut materials appropriate for the knife. |
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If it's a chef's knife, cut through food only, and cut on a non-dulling surface (like a nylon cutting board). |
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Even if it's a work knife, it is probably not designed to cut through fence wire or other hard materials. Use common sense to avoid injury, or damage to your knife. |
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Use your knife for its intended activities |
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Buck knives are designed for cutting and piercing. They are not designed to be thrown, pounded, hammered, twisted, pried or used with electronics. These actions may result in broken blades, other damage or injury. |
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Use care in storing knives |
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Store knives neatly and protect the edge. Keep kitchen knives in a storage block or on a magnet. Keep fixed-blade knives and tools in their sheaths when not in use. For long-term storage, it is better to keep them out of their sheaths to avoid tarnishing. |
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Throwing knives in a drawer or laying them around loose tends to dull the edges. |
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Stainless steel can be stored for a long period of time and maintain its edge. Non-stainless steel is more prone to corrosion and will lose its edge if left for long periods. Buck Knives uses stainless steel for all its blades, but not all knife companies do. |
Choosing the Right Knife 4 Steps to Buying the Right Knife Types of Knives End Use Blade Shapes Blade Features Blade & Handle Materials Quality & Craftsmanship Knife Sheaths
4 Steps to Buying the Right Knife
1. How will you use it? Everyday: Are you opening boxes or cutting twine? Outdoor (Backpacking/Climbing/Hiking/Camping): Does your activity involve using rope? Hunting/Fishing: Are you field dressing game or cleaning/filleting fish? Tactical/Survival: Do you need a heavy-duty knife that won't fail? Limited Edition/Custom: Are you a collector?
2. What features are important to you? Fixed-blade: Always ready for use and dependable. Folding knife: Compact, safer to carry; improved dependability with locking blade. One-handed opening: Has a thumb stud, blade hole or other feature to facilitate one-hand use. Some models are one-hand opening and one-hand closing as well. Gutting/skinning blade: For field dressing game. Thick Blade: For heavy-duty tasks. Light weight: Use of composite or other materials to minimize weight. Saw edge: For cutting wood or bone. Sharpness: Stays sharp and is easy to sharpen.
3. What is it made of and why?Blade Materials
A good blade combines good edge retention, ease of re-sharpening and rust resistance. S30V is the best blade steel available. It is a high vanadium stainless steel with even higher edge retention. 154CM and BG-42 are two custom steels with much higher carbon content, giving them higher hardness ratings and dramatically higher edge retention. 420HC is a stainless steel that provides excellent rust resistance, is easy to re-sharpen and has good edge retention. Handle Materials
A good handle should feel solid and well constructed when you hold it. We suggest you consider a handle style and material that meets your needs and suits your preference. An ergonomic design provides comfort. A rubber or textured handle provides a sure grip in wet conditions. A wooden handle adds beauty to the knife. Plastic/composite handles are durable under extreme conditions.
4. Does it offer an unconditional lifetime warranty?You want a knife that is crafted from high quality materials and will deliver reliable performance. If it should ever fail you, be sure the maker stands behind it. Buck Knives has been making knives for over 100 years and still backs all products with an unconditional lifetime warranty that is rock solid.
Knife Care & Repair
Knife UseBuck knives are designed for cutting. Using them for other purposes, such as throwing, pounding, prying, chopping or other purposes may create an unsafe condition and may void your warranty. Strong impacts or twisting forces may damage the knife or lock mechanism, and may result in the blade folding or otherwise failing during use. Any such use could result in severe injury. On lock blade models, always check to assure the locking mechanism is engaged prior to use. Keeping your blade sharp will also reduce risk of injury, as a sharp blade is safer than using a dull blade.
Knife CareBuck knives are made to provide years of reliable service. Like most equipment, knives need a little care. Here are a few tips to help you get lasting service from your knife:
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Keep your knife dry—the entire knife, not just the blade. |
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Keep your knife clean, particularly moving parts and locking device. |
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Keep your knife oiled; especially pivot points and the blade. |
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Keep your knife sharp. A sharp blade is safer than a dull one. |
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Do not attempt self-repair. This voids the warranty and may create an unsafe condition. |
| Knife Care Instructions |
| Buck uses stainless steel for blades and other components to minimize (but not eliminate) the weathering effects of liquids and oxidation. Not all knives use stainless steel. Older knives, and some newer ones, use carbon steel that is more susceptible to effects of the elements and may need more frequent care. Knife performance and longevity are enhanced by regular care: |
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Clean the entire knife regularly, including blade, pivot points and locking mechanism. If possible, clean it without immersing into liquid (spray cleaners work well). If you immerse in liquid (water, soapy water, or solvents), dry thoroughly after cleaning, then oil blade and moving parts. Regular cleaning and oiling should take care of sticky residue and light surface oxidation or beginning rust formation commonly found on knives. |
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Discoloration of metal: Discolored metal has a blue/grey/black color, is a sign of oxidation, and
precedes rust. |
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On non-stainless steel: Discoloration is common and can provide a barrier against oxidation.
Regular cleaning will keep discoloration from turning to rust. |
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On stainless steel: Stainless steel does not discolor easily. Discoloration should be regarded as
rust waiting to happen and should be cleaned immediately. |
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Rust: Rust has a reddish-brown color. Rust will eat pits into your blade and contaminate what you cut. Light rust can be cleaned with oil. Heavier rust needs to be cleaned with more abrasive action, such as cleaner, polish, or plastic cleaning pad. |
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Cleaning, polishing and lubricating help the performance, safety and longevity of your knife. Buck offers an assortment of knife care products. |
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Store your knife in a dry place (out of the sheath). Lightly wipe the blade with clean oil 2-3 times a year to keep rust from starting (more often if near water). |
CleaningAfter using your knife, it is a good practice to clean and dry your knife (the entire knife, not just the blade). Even though our blades are made with corrosion-resistant stainless steel, prolonged exposure to the elements can cause the steel's surface to oxidize. Folding knives should be kept clean of debris, particularly the locking device on lock-blade knives.
For your convenience, Buck provides two superb knife care products. Clean Streak is a completely residue-free metal prep that's easy to use. Just spray and wipe-no rinsing required. Metal Brite is a polish that removes surface oxidation, rust, tarnish and sticky residues while leaving a protective coating. Both products can be found in Accessories in the Products section.
As an alternative, chemical solvents such as Acetone, nail polish remover, MEK, alcohol or paint thinner may be used to clean your blade. Use care with these solvents, as some, such as acetone, nail polish remover, white gas, or brake fluid may damage some Buck handles. Avoid harsh detergents that contain Chlorine (mostly powders, including some for washing dishes and clothes), which can accelerate corrosion of the blade steel.
Avoid prolonged immersion in liquids (water, solvents, etc.). This can have a detrimental effect on not only the metal parts, but handles made of wood or other porous materials as well. Before using your Buck knife on food items, wipe clean with alcohol, or wash with hot soapy water and rinse clean. Remember to re-clean and lubricate your knife after the food job is done.
LubricatingPeriodically, and always after cleaning, apply a small amount of lubricant to the working parts of the knife, particularly the pivot points of a folding knife. Then apply a thin film of lubricant to the entire surface of the blade. This will help prevent surface oxidation and corrosion from moisture. In our Accessories section, you will find Wax Lubricant that is superb at lubricating, sealing and protecting knife blades and working parts.
Technical DataIn the section "Choosing the Right Knife," we give you all the basic information you need to help with your selection of a knife. Here, in Technical Data, we get into some more advanced information. Knife Terminology Steel Specifics Making of a Knife Heat-Treating
Knife TerminologyA knife blade may look simple, but there's a lot that goes into the making of a quality blade that will have the strength and edge-retention that ensures consistent, reliable performance for years. Here's a useful compilation of the terminology used to describe the properties that must be considered.
Alloy Steel - Steel that has been enhanced with additional elements (chromium, molybdenum, vanadium, nickel) is called alloy steel.
Carbon - An element present in all steels. Increasing the carbon content increases hardness.
Chromium - A major element in martensitic stainless steel that improves hardenability, wear resistance and corrosion resistance.
Coils - Long steel strips that come in large rolls, which are fed into Buck's fine blanking press as the first step toward making a blade.
Corrosion Resistance - A blade's ability to resist rusting which is the result of exposure to the environment or elements.
Ductility - The blade's ability to flex, bend or take an impact without fracturing. If the amount of flex or bend is small before cracking or breaking, the blade is considered brittle.
Edge Retention - A measure of the blade's ability to hold an edge by resisting abrasion and wear. The most objective test is the CATRA machine, a computer-controlled testing machine that gives accurate and repeatable data for an objective evaluation of edge sharpness and consistency.
Fine Blanking - Buck's advanced blade blanking system. Our fine blanking machine is used to press a knife blade out of a coil of steel using a specifically shaped die. Fine blanking produces consistently accurate parts that require little additional machining.
Hardenability - The steel's ability to be hardened.
Hardness - A good indicator of steel's ability to hold an edge. A blade's hardness is measured on the Rockwell "C" scale, a testing process described in Making a Knife.
Heat-Treat - An important series of steps in developing blade properties, such as toughness. For more information, please go to Heat-Treating.
Laser Cutting - Large blades and "hard steel" blades are cut from sheets of steel on a state-of-the-art computer-controlled laser machine that has the capacity to "laser out" blades to a specified shape.
Manufacturability - The ease in which steel can be machined, blanked, ground and heat-treated.
Martensitic - Steels capable of being brought to a very hard condition are called martensitic steels. This type is best suited for knife blades. See Heat-Treating for more explanation.
Molybdenum - An element added to steel to improve hardenability, tensile strength and resistance to corrosion and pitting.
Nickel - An alloy addition that improves steel's toughness, hardenability and corrosion resistance. Nickel is a major element in steel used for kitchen cutlery and dive knives.
Plate - Flat sheets of steel that are turned into knife blades by laser cutting.
Properties - Refers to such things as hardenability, ductility and toughness, which are established by the particular chemistry of the steel and the proper heat-treat process. Properties most important to knife blades are covered in this glossary.
Rockwell - A hardness-testing machine that forces a small penetrator into the surface. The depth of penetration correlates to a scale reading, the scale normally used for knife blades is the "C" scale written as "Rc". The higher the number, the harder the steel. Most blade steels are in the range of Rc 58-61. C scale (Rc Buck maintains an Rc 58 on our standard steel. Our higher end steels range from 59-61, depending on use.
Initial Sharpness - The sharpness of the blade "out of the box," and the sharpness that is the goal when re-sharpening.
Stainless Steel - The common term "stainless" is misleading. More accurately, it should be called "stain less" because it is not "stain free." In certain environments, any steel with carbon will rust. Stainless steel's corrosion-resistant properties make it a good material for knife blades.
Strength - Steel's ability to resist applied forces.
Tempering - The final step in the heat-treat process to improve toughness.
Tensile Strength - Ability to resist breaking. Ultimate Tensile Strength is the maximum load per square inch a blade can sustain before breaking.
Toughness - A blade's ability to absorb energy by impact prior to fracturing.
Vanadium - A material added to steel to improve hardenability and promote fine grain, an important factor in wear resistance.
Knife Safety
Practicing knife safety will enhance your use and enjoyment of your knife as a valuable tool. Using a knife for purposes other than which it was intended invariably leads to the possibility of trouble or injury and may void your warranty. At Buck Knives, we encourage you to use your knife safely-you and those around you will be glad you did.
1. CUT AWAY FROM YOUR BODY-NOT TOWARD. 2. IF YOU DROP YOUR KNIFE, LET IT FALL-DON'T ATTEMPT TO CATCH IT. 3. DON'T RUN WITH A KNIFE. 4. DON'T THROW A KNIFE TO ANYONE-HAND IT TO THEM (HANDLE FIRST). 5. DON'T POINT A KNIFE AT ANYONE. 6. DO NOT USE A LOCKING FOLDING KNIFE IF BLADE DOES NOT LOCK OPEN.
(check that the lock is operational prior to each use) 7. KEEP YOUR KNIFE FOLDED/SHEATHED WHEN CARRYING OR NOT USING. 8. DO NOT SHARPEN ON A POWER GRINDER. USE A SHARPENING STONE.
(using a power grinder will make the edge brittle and void the warranty) 9. USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB. DON'T USE KNIFE FOR PRYING.
(using a knife for prying can cause the tip to break, fly off and cause injury) 10. USE IN A WELL-LIT AREA SO YOU CAN SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING. 11. DO NOT USE A KNIFE ON "LIVE" ELECTRICAL ITEMS LIKE APPLIANCES. 12. KEEP YOUR KNIFE CLEAN-PARTICULARLY THE LOCKING MECHANISM. 13. KEEP YOUR KNIFE OILED AND SHARP (SAFER THAN DULL). 14. DO NOT ATTEMPT SELF-REPAIR-IT IS DANGEROUS AND VOIDS WARRANTY. 15. IF YOU GET CUT, SEEK FIRST AID IMMEDIATELY.
Types of Knives
FIXED-BLADE KNIVES |
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A fixed-blade knife will never surprise you in use because it is a solid piece of steel anchored to the handle. For those who want a blade they really trust for tough jobs, such as field dressing and tough camping tasks, a fixed blade is the answer. Fixed blades are durable and hold up to the elements well because of their straight, simple construction without folding mechanisms. In fixed blade knives, the blade is one piece of metal that runs the length of the knife. When the blade reaches the beginning of the handle, it can either taper into a rat-tail that is surrounded by the handle or not taper and continue as a tang that is covered on either side by handle "slabs." |
FOLDING KNIVES |
| Folding blade knives are generally not quite as durable as fixed blade knives, but provide safety and the carrying convenience of compact size. Folding blade knives come in a variety of configurations, some of which lock into place. Locking folders allow much of the same confidence of a fixed-blade while letting you close the blade into the handle for safety. |
| Pocket Knife |
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Good, old-fashioned pocket knives are still high on the list of favorites-great to carry in your pocket for all the times you might need a knife. Not all models lock open, but that's not critical for their utilitarian use. Some pocket knives offer multiple blades for different uses. |
| Lockback |
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A "lockback" is a type of folding knife that locks open. Locking folders provide much of the confidence of a fixed-blade while open, yet enable you to fold the blade for safety and carrying convenience.
A lockback gets its name from a rocking lock plate visible on the back of the handle. Opening the blade causes the "rocker" to lock against the blade so it locks open. Pushing down on the rocker at the back of the handle releases it and enables you to close the blade. Lockbacks require two-hand closing, though some are one-hand openers.
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| One-Hand Open/Close |
Many knife users are looking for the convenience of a knife that opens and closes with one hand, and also provides lock-open safety. For climbing and activities where one hand is occupied, a one-hander is essential. For other activities, a one-hander may be the personal preference. There are many types of one-handers, so choose one that fits your activities.
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Liner Lock
A "liner lock" is a folding knife that locks open via a tensioned metal liner inside the handle. Similar to a "lockback," opening the blade activates the lock. Unlocking is achieved by placing your thumb on the front part of the liner and pushing to the left, which releases the blade. A liner lock enables you to close the blade with one hand. A thumb hole or thumb stud in the blade is typically used for one-hand opening.
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Frame Lock
A "Frame Lock" operates like a liner lock, only the lock is a tensioned part of the handle frame with an open channel. When the blade opens, the frame lock moves into the handle opening and locks against the blade. Pushing to the left releases it from its "locked" position so you can close the blade.
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Assisted Opening
Buck's "Assisted Opening" knives are the ultimate in 1-hand convenience. They also use a liner lock for locking the blade open. To open, release the safety, then push the blade release ridge. After the blade starts opening, the assisted opening mechanism (ASAP) completes the blade opening, which releases the liner to lock the blade open. To close, push left on the front of the liner lock to unlock it, close the blade and engage the safety on top of the handle.
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| Buck's ASAP TechnologyTM is functionally distinct from automatic knives (switchblade type) that typically use gravity alone or a button or lever in the handle to release the spring mechanism that opens the blade from a fully closed position. Buck's two-stage operation (disengagement of safety, then activation of blade release lever) was designed to provide a high measure of safety to the user. Due to the complex and changing nature of knife laws, it is the knife user's responsibility to investigate whether the purchase, possession and use of this knife comply with federal, state and local knife laws applicable to the user. |
Making of a KnifeDifferent models of knives go through somewhat different processes. These are the steps we use to make a knife:
1. Laser Cutting or Fine BlankingFirst, the blade must be cut out of raw steel. Buck Knives uses raw steel in two forms--plates and coils. Plate stock - used for the larger knives that typically require thicker blades or higher hardness and edge retention. Blades and metal knife components are cut out of steel plates through the use of a computer programmed laser. Coil stock - used for the smaller knives that typically have thinner blades. Blades and knife components are cut out of steel coils through a process known as "fine blanking" that uses a specifically shaped die to press the blades out of the raw steel coils.
2. Rough GrindingThe first step created the blade. Now, both sides of the blade are ground to achieve a desired blade thickness through CNC machining (computer numerically controlled).
3. Stamping
The next step in the process is stamping. Depending on the model, stamping might include special features, such as a nail notch or groove. All blades are stamped with the Buck information-the Buck name, the model number and a date code. Due to the constant evolution of the design and manufacture of our products, we began stamping a date code on our knife blades in 1986.
4. Heat-Treating
The Paul Bos WayHeat-treating is the process by which the cut steel blades are prepared to make them suitable for their end use in a specific type of knife. Heat-treating imparts special qualities to metals, such as hardness, strength, ductility and others. When heating and subsequent cooling are applied to metals in their solid state, the physical and structural properties of these metals are changed (but not the chemical composition). Since different steels are used for different types of knives, they require slightly different heat-treating processes to acquire the desired properties. Buck works with state-of-the-art metallurgists who determine what heating and freezing processes are necessary to get the maximum performance from the different steels. One of Buck's great resources is Paul Bos, who has been performing heat-treating since 1956. Paul is a nationally known heat-treating authority and has developed proprietary processes. Paul's link to Buck Knives goes back to the late '50s when he worked on custom knives for Al Buck. Paul oversees all of Buck Knives' heat-treating and performs heat-treating for a great number of custom knife makers. His shop is located in the Buck plant, where he is readily available to consult with Buck's engineers. Clearly, the Paul Bos touch is an integral part of Buck's great blades.Buck Knives takes each blade through a carefully controlled three-step heat-treating process that brings the blade to a blend of properties appropriate for the end use of the knife. To ensure uniform heating, the blades are separately laid out on a continuous, slow moving conveyor belt.
| 1. First, the blades are heated to a high temperature (then cooled to room temperature). 2. Next, the blades are lowered into a cryogenic freezer where they are subjected to below zero temperatures (then brought back to room temperature). 3. After that, the blades are placed in an oven where the temperature is slowly raised to between 350°F to 950°F, depending on the end use and steel type. |
This tempering process toughens the steel and brings 420HC blades to 58 on the Rockwell scale, the preferred hardness for edge holding. ATS-34, BG-42 and S30V blades can be hardened to Rc 59.5-61. To achieve the desired properties, some blades are tempered more than once. Only after this rigorous heat-treat process is a Buck blade ready to be edged-the other vitally important process in creating a great blade.
5. Close Tolerance Grinding After heat-treating, each blade is fine ground (both sides) to a close tolerance through CNC machining. This step gives each blade a consistent thickness so it will fit with all the other knife parts for that model.
6. Blade FinishDepending on the desired appearance for the blade, it may be rough tumbled to achieve a satin finish or fine polished to achieve a bright, shiny finish. To some extent, this step smoothes out the marks created during the grinding process.
7. Hollow Grinding The next step in blade making is the hollow grinding process. Here, blades are ground (computer machined) to achieve a desired shape and slope from the top of the blade down to the cutting edge at the bottom. Predominantly, we use a "semi-hollow" grind to create an edge that will be sharp out of the box, retain its sharpness, be easy to re-sharpen and enable the blade to maintain its strength. Robotics is used for grinding to achieve a consistency not possible with hand grinding. These cross-section diagrams show the four most common grinds used for knife blades.Semi-Hollow - Creates a nice balance between a sharp edge and overall blade strength. It is the most common grind used today.Full Hollow - Produces the thinnest and sharpest edge but is the most vulnerable to abuse.Flat Grind (V-Grind) - Produces a very sharp cutting edge with reasonable blade strength. Easy to re-sharpen.Flat Grind (Rolled Edge) - Produces the strongest blade, the cutting edge becomes thicker after repeated use and re-sharpening. It's a little harder to re-sharpen.
8. Final Grinding In this step, some blades receive grinding for special features, such as serrations, gut-hooks, and chamfers. As with previous grinding, this is a CNC step (computer numerically controlled).
9. Assembly The knives are assembled using various processes, materials, fasteners and adhesives, depending on the model.
10. Shaping Some knife models (in particular, knives with natural handle materials-wood, bone, etc.) go through a shaping process whereby the handle materials are ground, sanded or buffed to achieve a smooth fit and finish. Models with metal handles (and most plastic handles) may not go through this stage. Tactical knives would be an example of knives that do not require the shaping stage.
11. PolishingFor those knives that went through the shaping stage, next they get fine polished (handle materials).
12. Edging Edging the blade with Buck's Edge2x™ Technology.For 35 years, Buck Knives followed a blade-edging protocol that produced blades with excellent edge-holding qualities. In 1999, Buck decided to edge out the competition with the most exciting innovation in edge technology-Edge2x.Chuck Buck, along with Buck engineers, quality and production supervisors, and experienced blade edgers, experimented with angles and materials before coming up with the exact edge geometry specification to create this new, thinner, sharper edge. This edge was achieved by changing the included angle (the total of the angles on both sides of the blade) from a range of 35° to 50° to a range of 26° to 32°. This range allows Buck greater flexibility to match the angle of the blade to the function of the knife. The initial part of creating the edge is performed during step #7, hollow grinding, which is a computer controlled, automated machine process. During this grinding process, blades are tapered to a specific profile. This yields a consistent blade thickness at the edge that cannot be duplicated by hand. Then the human hand takes over on an edging wheel. Another key to the success of the Edge2x process is that we converted to using laminated leather stropping wheels instead of stitched cloth. The sturdiness of the leather wheels enables us to eliminate "rollover" (where the edge can lose its ideal keenness) and create razor-sharp blades with consistency.The human touch lessens the risk of burning, which can lower the hardness of the steel. Experienced edgers, who have been with Buck for many years, went through extensive training to learn the new system. It took many months for them to perfect the process, but it has been well worth the effort.A computerized test for edge retention, developed by CATRA (Cutlery and Allied Trades Research Association), is performed on blades for each knife model. For inspection, a laser-measuring device, called a goniometer, is used to check the precise angle measurements to verify that the edge matches specifications. Edge2x blades have been compared against our older Buck blades and evaluated using the CATRA tests, which proved the superiority of our new edging process. With Edge2x Technology, every knife made by Buck is sharper out of the box, holds an edge much longer and is easier to re-sharpen when needed.
13. Sharpening In the same way the blades are finish-edged by hand, blades are sharpened by hand on a sharpening wheel. Each blade is tested for sharpness.
14. Cleaning
Each knife is given a final cleaning and lubrication prior to being packaged
Courtesy of Buck Knives
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Note: All prices in US Dollars
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